Dedicar mi blog
´Un dia Yo puedo dejar el peru,
pero este nunca saldra de mi.´
Quisiera dedicar mi blog a Lucia & Maria en Lima y Blanca, Abuela Aida & Ana en Cusco.
Y tambien, la familia de Blanca (y mascotas!), la escuela Amauta (Luz, Tanya, Sabrina, Mary, Maria, David, Simone, Rinskia, Sheryl y Mattias), Luis, David & Gabriel, Mari-Carmel & Javier (y familia de Lucia), Delfina, Kevin & Monika (y amigos), Maria & Aaron, Grupo GEA (Mario, Ana y Veronica), Pedro, Ivonne y Centro de Flora Tristan, Anna & Jorge & Marabel & Valentina (y Madre de Anna), fr. Lalo (y los padres), Milka & Charo, Estrella (y las mujeres de Los Olivos y San Benito) y Sian. And my fellow travellers who lifted the spirits of a lone traveller, Carlos from Mexico in Machu Picchu, Davina & Franck from Germany in Nasca, Mohammed from Malaysia in Trujillo, Ne from Piura on the bus to Trujillo, Dee from Seattle & Pablo from Lima & Yovana from Lima in Huarez.Y mis familia y amigos, muchas gracias todo. xx
Nevado Pastoruri, Cordillera Blanca
The Nevado Pastoruri. Due to global warming the ice is melting and will eventually disappear.
At 5240m the hour walk to the Nevado Pastoruri was slow and painful but it was worth it! The end of the road for me, the mountain tops of the Cordillera Blanca.
Puya Raimondii, Quebrada Raria, Cordillera Blanca
La Puya Raimondii, the largest member of the bromeliads, or piña familia! It reaches 2m in height and takes 100 years to grow. It then flowers by producing a hugh 10m spike which is covered with 20,000 flowers for 3 months and then the plant dies! The puyas flower in groups every 3-4 years (not this year, then.)
The giant bromeliad is one of the world´s most ancient plant species and is considered a living fossil, found only in a few isolated areas of the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes.
Huaraz y Cordilleras Blanca & Negra
Huaraz, in the Rio Santa valley, is the capital of the department Ancash (the size of Scotland or Holland). Most of the city was completely destroyed in the 1970 earthquake. Huaraz is surrounded by two mountain ranges: the Cordillera Blanca to the east & Cordillera Negra to the west. The valley is called El Callejon de Huaylas.
Inca kola
I´m still going strong with the Inca Kola, el peru´s finest fizzy pop.
Chavin de Huantar
The Chavin didn´t conquer by warfare but by artistic and cultural development, and were much more stylized and cultist than the naturalistic style of the later Moche and Nasca. Corn was a staple diet along with squash, avocados and yucca. The Chavin through their art and religion of feline worshipping cults influenced a large part of el peru! Below the Castillo are underground tunnels, and at the heart of the complex a 4m high monolith, carved rock called Lanzon de Chavin.
Chavin de Huantar
Chavin de Huantar is the oldest major culture in peru 1000 to 300BC. The principle Chavin deity was feline (jaguar or puma) and lesser deities the condor, snake and human.
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The Castillo facing the hugh central square (and intricate and well-engineered system of channels for drainage). The walls were once embellished with tenons (keystones of large projecting blocks of carved stylised human heads).
The Callejon de Conchucos Valley and Laguña, towards Chavin de Huantar, Cordillera Blanca.
Laguña Llanganuco, Cordillera Blanca
One of the two turquoise Lagunas in the Llanganuco valley, 28km east of Yungay, along the Callejon de Huaylas.The laguñas are surrounded by beautiful mountains, this is montaña Huandoy (6160m). It was my dream to visit the Cordillera Blanca and after clouds in the morning, the snow peaks appeared for glimpses in the afternoon.
Yungay, El Callejon de Huaylas, Ancash
The Rio Santa valley has suffered many natural disasters due to rising water levels in high mountain lakes breaching the thin wall of glacial debris which is also caused by avalanches and earthquakes. On the 31 May 1970 an earthquake measuring 7.7 on the richter scale devastated central peru, killing 70,000 people: half the 30,000 population of Huaraz were killed and the entire town of Yungay with a population of 18,000 was completely buried by an aluvion (a hugh wall of water mixed with snow, ice, mud, and rocks) from montaña Huascaran (Peru´s highest montaña 6768m).
Jaime Rázuri
Annie told me of some very upsetting news today. Her friend the peruvian photographer Jaime Rázuri has been kidnapped in Gaza. It is on the front page of the newspapers here and there is a vigil in the plaza de Armas in Lima.http://jaimelibertad.blogspot.comhttp://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/middle_east/6227159.stm
Trujillo
It´s been lovely to be back in Trujillo today after my trip to Mañcora. In the Museo cafe bar, cafe Roman and cafe Demarco they all remembered me and gave me a warm welcome! Am off to Huarez now..
Trujillo y Winnie the Pooh!
On my return to Trujillo, the foto had to be taken, the navidad nativity as never before- Piglet as the flying arcangelo, Eyeore as Mary, Rabbit as Joseph and Tigger as the baby Jesus! And not forgetting Little Roo as Papa Noel!
Yo dejo Mañcora Karibo
I think this was the live gig playing outside my hotel room in the morning hours of new years eve! Great tunes.Had another nightmare, thought I was never going to leave Mañcora, the bus times change at will and apparently my pre-booked evening bus went in the afternoon. It´s described as a fishing village but Mañcora is a one street town on the dusty & noisey panamerican highway! For me, it lost its little charm very quickly.
Feliz Años 2007!
Feliz Años Nuevo!Yesterday to celebrate feliz años I went for a 6 hour walk along the pacific coast, south of Mancora (very close to the border with Ecuador)! I begin 2007 with seized up knees & ankles and a nice bit of sunburn on the backs of my legs- can`t wait for my 10 hour bus journey to Trujillo tonight! Nice to see the sea. Now, for los montañas..!
Mancora
Never, Ever, come to Mancora in the high season on the New Year weekend without a reservation! After a 9 hour bus journey from Chiclayo I`ve had an absolute `mare- all the hotels are booked up (single travellers are completely discriminated against)! Sarita Colonia is looking after me though- by some divine miricle intervention after yet another hotel rejection I walked in to a hotel reception and there was Anna! A big hug and an offer of a place to stay the night saved my life! Anna and her familia have been staying here for Navidad. Marabel helped me find a hotel for the next two nights, we tried loads and my hotel was our last hope. It`s in the pueblo so unfortunately doesn`t have this rather nice view of the playa but I am very thankful to Sarita Colonia, Anna, Jorge, Marabel and little Valentina- Feliz Años Nuevo!!
Tucume (Lambayque)
Purgatorio (purgatory) is the name by which local people refer to the dozens of prehispanic pyramids, enclosures and mounds found on the plain around La Raya Mountain, south of the La Leche River. This is the site of Túcume, covering an area of over 540 acres and encompassing 26 major pyramids and platforms.
This site was a major regional centre, maybe even the capital of the successive occupations of the area by the Lambayeque (800-1350 AD), Chimu (1350-1450AD) and Inca (1450-1532AD). Local shaman healers (curanderos) invoke the power of Tucume and La Raya Mountain in their rituals, and local people fear these sites. Hardly anyone other than healers venture out in this site at night.
The plains of Tucume are part of the Lambayeque valle, the largest valle of the North Coast of Peru. The Lambayeque Valle has many natural and man-made waterways and is also a region of about 250 brick pyramids. The discovery of the Tucume pyramids was accidental. People were in search of gold they stumbled upon the ancient pyramid ruins.
Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan
One of the greatest archaeological finds of the late 20th century, the Royal Tombs of Sipan now housed in the Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan in Lambayque, near Chiclayo. 
The Moche were farmers, artists, fishermen and warriors (1st- 6th century AD) on the northern coast of Peru. The Moche were an heirarchical, advanced and complex civilisation, known through their temples, fortifications, irrigation systems, populated centres, cemeteries, ceremics and metal work. 
The Lord of Sipan funeral chamber- his ornaments, head-dresses, emblems and garments, surrounded by 8 members of his entourage, offerings at his feet and head, and 3 women less than 20 yrs old in their cane coffins. His military chief with weapons and combat garments, the standard bearer and a dog. In the corner a body of a child. Below were 2 llamas that were the first animals to be sacrificed. 212 vessels in symbolic order, containing offerings of food and drink.
Huaca de la Luna
The friezes of the Huaca de la Luna decorate the walls of the ramps leading up to the top ceremonial platform.
The temple is built alongside the Huaca del Sol on the Bank of the Rio Moche by the Moche (200BC - 850AD), made with thousands of mass produced mud bricks. The bricks were amassed in columns and built upwards in layers with connecting ramps to ceremonial courtyards. 
At the huaca de la Luna there were many brutal adult male sacrifices to the deity known as `Ayapec`, a pre Quechua word translating as all knowing. Human sacrifice also included the consumption of human blood by the Lord of Sipan, who was a Moche spiritual, military and civil leader. This act is believed to have been done to appease the Decapitator, mostly depicted as a spider, but also depicted as a winged creature or a sea monster.
The Moche believed in dualism and everything was connected from the sun, to the moon, to the land and to the sea. The fishermen were the most highly esteemed after the priests and the ruler. Their biggest fear was El Niño.
Chan Chan (Chimu)
Chan Chan, built in the 14th century and the largest Adobe city in the world, covering 28 sq km and consisting of ceremonial courtyards. At the height of the Chimu kingdom it would have housed over 60,000 inhabitants. Built beside the sea the sound of the waves can be heard from the ceremonial courtyards.
The Chimu, (850AD-1470) were not as artistically sophisticated as the Moche (200Bc - 850AD) and much of their ceramics and metal work was mass produced to use for bartering. The Chimu were assimulated by the Incas in 1471 as the Incas expanded north from Cusco. The city wasn´t looted until the arrival of the spanish. Part of Chan Chan has been questionably restored.
Feliz Navidad (Trujillo)
Christmas greetings from the Plaza de Armas Trujillo! Sorry, I didn´t take a foto of the Winnie the Pooh & Piglet nativity scene. Perhaps a little over-commercialisation this christmas time but there were also a thousand (screaming) children there and I couldn´t face it...!
Cafe Bar de Museo
Soft green leather seats and the best coffee in Trujillo.
Trujillo (Libertad)
The coastal colonial city of Trujillo is over 550km north of Lima and was founded by Pizarro in 1535. Trujillo is noted for the wrought-iron window grills of its elegant colonial mansions. A bigger attraction is the ´King Kong´cake!
Ella viaje peru norte
After the Navidad delights of Lima I am travelling north...
Trujillo & Libertad (Chan Chan y Huaca del Sol & Huaca de la Luna) - Chiclayo & Lambayque (Tumbas Reales de Sipan y Huacas de Tucume) - Mancora & Piura (La playa) - Huaraz & Ancash (Cordillera Blanca).
Feliz Navidad! (Lima)
Feliz Navidad - season´s greetings from Lima! Maria & David and Lucia have been making preparations all day. I helped cut the pineapples in half and then fell asleep for 4 hours this afternoon. I haven´t even had a glass of sherry!? It´s now 6pm, at 7pm the christmas tree and nativity lights are switched on and presents are shared. At midnight we have dinner in the garden! Maria, David & Gabriel have just left to travel home to be with their family for navidad.
El Papa!
Cienciano 2 v Universitario 1! Campeones!
Futbol: El papa de siempre!
With one game to go, four teams were all in position to win the clausura titulo! If Bolognesi won, the title was theirs. If they only drew and Alianza Lima won, they would win the title. If they both drew, La U´s or Cienciano could win but both playing away fixtures to Alianza Lima´s home game, Alianza were favourites. Alianza Lima lost 1-2 to the Sport Boys, Bolognesi FC lost 2-0 away to U. San Martin! Universitario won 0-1 against Union Huaral and Cienciano, my team, overcame FBC Melgar in Arequipa 1-2!! Tonight, La U´s play Cienciano in Trujillo to contend for the title of the tourna Clausura. The winner plays Alianza Lima (as the winners of the opening tournament) to claim the title of League campeons!!
Mount Misti, Arequipa
The Collaguas of Arequipa are notable for their excellent textil skills and ability as shepherds of large alpaca flocks. In 1540, the spanish founded the city of Arequipa at the foot of Mount Misti. Arequipa is an important commercial and industrial centre. In the 19th century, Aerquipa became an important centre for sheep and alpaca wool exportation to England, managing to establish its own economic strength in the country. The department of Arequipa begins in the coastal desert and climbs the Andes, reaching great altitude at the snow covered peaks of Mount Ampato (6288m) and Mount Chachani (6075m) and at its volcanoes such as Mount Misti (5825m). Arequipa also has two of the deepest canyons on earth: the Cotahuasi and Colca Cañons.
Catedral, Arequipa
Arequipa´s 17th century Catedral on the Plaza de Armas built of Sillar, (white volcanic stone). Arequipa is known as ´La Cuidad de Blanca´. Destroyed by a fire in 1844 and rebuilt in a Neo-classical style. In 2001, the catedral was struck hard by an earthquake seriously damaging its towers.
Isla Taquile, Lago Titicaca
The Isla Taquile is 6km long and an over 2hr boat journey from Puno. With a population of just over 2000, the taquile people have a very strong identity & traditions, and rarely marry non-Taquile people.
On the Isla Taquile, the women weave and the men knit their own hats as part of deeply ingrained social customs. An elder wears a multi-coloured striped hat symbolising his past and position. This rather kind elder was my dancing partner after lunch!
When a man is married his hat is red, and if he is single the hat is half red and white.
Islas Flotantes, Lago Titicaca
The floating islands of the Uros people on Lake Titicaca- the isla de ´Amanecer´. The Uros are a small tribe who created the islands to isolate themselves from the warrior tribe Colla and the Incas. The islands are made of blocks and layers of reeds. As the bottom level rots, a new layer is placed on top every 15 days. 
Around 12 families live on this island made of totora reeds. A family making empanadas. Several hundred people live on the Islands and make a living from fishing and tourism.
Sillustani, Lago Umayo
The Colla people of the peninsula dominated the region of Lago Titicaca and were Aymara-speaking warriors. They grew maiz, quinea, papas, were fishermen and raised alpaca. The Colla buried their nobility in funerary towers 12m high, called ´chullpas´. The small door of the chullpas points east, the direction of the Andes as their spirit returns to the mountains. The chullpas at Sillustani are positioned in the Orion southern constellation, cruz del sur. Each tower housed a family group.At 3890m, the peninsula is bleak and brooding.
Puno y Lago Titicaca
In the bay at Puno is a steamship called the the ´Yavari´- the oldest steamship on Lago Titicaca, and built in England in 1862. All 2766 iron parts for two vessels were shipped around the Cape Horn to Arica, by train to Tacna before being hauled by mule over the Andes to Puno. It took six years!
Plaza de Armas, Puno
A political rally on friday morning in the Plaza de Armas in support of Ollanta. Ollanta Humala is a left-leaning nationalist politician and a former Army Lieutenant Colonel. He ran in the pesidential election this year with his own Nationalist Party losing to Alan Garcia. In October 2000, he led a failed uprising in the Tacna Region (south of Puno) against then President Alberto Fujimori. He hid until President Fujimori was impeached from office and Valentin Paniagua Corazao was made interim president. Prosecutors in Peru have now filed murder charges against Ollanta Humala, accusing him of human rights abuses during the 1990s. The charges date to when Humala was an army base captain at a jungle base in San Martin province. He is accused of forced disappearance, torture and murder during the fight against Shining Path guerrillas. During the 1990´s, the military detained innocent people. In several massacres, the military wiped out entire villages. Military personnel took to wearing black ski-masks to hide their identity as they committed these crimes.
Feliz Navidad (Puno)
Feliz Navidad de Puno! An all sparkling christmas nativity crib in a frozen pollo shop in Puno.
